Jae's Spice Coming to Pittsfield
Fine Dining Returns to Revitalized Downtown
By: Charles Giuliano - May 28, 2008
After 22 months, and a loss said to be $1.2 million, which does not include build out of the property, Joyce Bernstein and Larry Rosenthal closed the upscale Spice Restaurant which sprawled along a block in the center of North Street in downtown Pittsfield. In a March letter to employees Bernstein wrote that "I have reluctantly come to the conclusion that the present Spice model is not viable in Pittsfield."
Other than the peak season months of July and August over the past two years the restaurant failed to turn a profit. Most visitors would agree with Bernstein's assessment that the ambitious Spice was not a viable option for more than an annual special occasion. Even then, the New York prices, which may fly during the summer when that audience visits the Berkshires, did not jibe with the quality of food being served. Paying top dollar in hard scrabble Pittsfield comes with expectations of superb gourmet dining which, generally, the restaurant failed to deliver. This was particularly evident in the off season when few too commanded the deep pockets to support a restaurant that overreached its core market.
The collapse of Spice left a huge gap in the image and reputation of a city struggling to get back on its feet by reconfiguring itself as an arts destination. The downfall of Spice shook the confidence of those committed to turning the corner. As the culinary flagship of the new Pittsfield there was an aching feeling when it went belly up. Not that many of us went more than once or twice and generally came away feeling fleeced and disappointed.
By contrast, Jae Chung and his various Jae's Restaurants in Boston, North Adams (closed), and now Williamstown have generally found that perfect balance between price, ambiance and quality that has created a loyal audience. Our many evenings at Jae's have proven to be wonderfully reliable. The menu of largely Asian and Korean food, with an emphasis on sushi, has always proved enormously satisfying.
In a marriage made in heaven, let's hope, Jae Chung is working with Bernstein and Rosenthal to get Jae's Spice up and running by early July. It is essential for the new merger to catch the peak of the season when tourism floods the Berkshires for its many cultural attractions and natural beauty.
While many are concerned that $4 a gallon gas will put the kibosh on tourism, others point out that New York and Boston are just a tank away (an average of $80 round trip) from the pleasures of the Berkshires. If anything, that proximity may bode well with families looking for vacation destinations. Hey, this summer, forget about the Greek Islands, Provence, or Tuscany and head for the Berkshires. During the high season it is a world class cultural destination.
Let's hope that Chung, who has lots of experience in the challenging restaurant business, can beat some sense into his partners. There is talk that the menu will combine the best features of Spice and Jae's. In the Spice end of that plan let's hope it entails increasing portions and lowering prices. If they find the right combination Jae's Spice should do well all year long and not just rely on the upscale summer tourists. Do we really need $30 plus, a la carte, entrees in Pittsfield? Hey, that doesn't even come with a salad.
In other good news for developing Pittsfield, last night, the City Council approved a $1.1 million allocation from the General Electric Economic Development Fund for the Beacon Cinema Project. It will bring independent and foreign film to a multi screen facility.
So, for now, it's all good to go for a spectacular Berkshire season.