Moonlight in Vermont

Exploring the Villages of Chester and Grafton

By: Charles Giuliano - Jul 30, 2007

The old Depot is a top attraction in Chester, Vermont. Giuliano photos.

Chester's General Store lays between the Depot and City Hall.

You can pick up your hunting and fishing license.

Wood stoves are on sale.

The General Store sells all kinds of old fashioned stuff.

Outside the General Store a house drove by.

Followed by a hay truck.

A spectacular Gingerbread House.

This Victorian mansion is for sale.

The Victorian Inn is regarded as one of the finest in Vermont.

The Hugging Bear Inn has stuffed animals in the windows.

The Fullerton bills itself as an old fashioned country inn.

The heart of Chester has interesting shops and cafes.

The owner of the General Store in downtown Chester was very helpful.

- click for more

http://www.chesterlodging.com
http://www.chester.govoffice.com
http://www.mapquest.com

      It was a drizzly Monday when we packed up and headed through North Adams, passed the historic Beaver Mill ,following Route 8 out of town. The destination seemed less important than just getting away.

        Plans were made rather hastily. Last summer we visited upstate New York, the Finger Lakes, Cooperstown, Corning,  and attended a Native American Festival at Ganondagan on Seneca land in Victor, New York near Rochester. There is much that we enjoyed about New York State and we still have to become more familiar with the Albany region but this was to be a short trip, just a couple of days, so we opted for a closer destination. In addition to a bit of Google searching and Mapquesting I emailed my BFA associate Michael Miller who often attends performances and festivals in the region. He had a couple of recommendations including Newfane and Chester. I asked about Brattleboro but he suggested, correctly, that it would be too urban for a true getaway. He enticed us by stating that Chester combined vintage Victorian architecture with just the right critical mass of lodging and dining. Near to Chester is the smaller Grafton which features Federal period architecture.

        When we travel I am the pilot and Astrid is the navigator. This allows me to focus on driving and I tend to zone out on the road and get very Zen about contemplating the passing scenery. She tends to the details about where to turn and when to pick up a new highway or byway. 

                      Astrid had the print outs of the fifteen Inns in Chester. Being a Monday I didn't figure they would be crowded but suggested she call them by cell phone. This is what we usually do and she gets a range of prices and discusses amenities. But we couldn't get a signal and pulled into Chester landing on instruments.  

            We cruised the short main street noting a number of inviting places to stay. The Inn Victoria is highly touted as one of the best venues in Vermont. We got out and poked about but it was closed. We saw a light on at the Chester House Inn but nobody answered the front door bell. I pulled around to the driveway and we called. Somebody answered and told us that while usually open the inn was closed because his partner was away for the day. Looking through his window he told us there were no signs of life at the Hugging Bear Inn next door.

            The Fullerton Inn was open and they were serving in the dining room so things were looking up. Until we asked about accommodations but there was no TV or internet wireless connection. "We are just an old fashioned country inn," we were told. But at least there was a fall back position and it was getting on check in and dinner time. We decided on a motel which was neat and clean, a non smoking environment, and had tv and internet options. We drove on through town just to explore the options and a bit away from the center we encountered Curtis BBQ which got me all excited but there were no signs of life.

           The sun broke through on Tuesday as we poked about. The General Store was fun and its owner was most helpful in pointing out places of interest particularly the Old Depot and the real famous General Store next to it. So we set out and about but in the back of my mind I was dead set on lunch at Curtis BBQ.

           There were some wonderful Victorian homes to check out and photograph including an elaborate, text book perfect example of Gingerbread with its ornate detail. Wow. As well as some other knock out examples a few of which were for sale. With its railroad depot and connections back in the day it appears that Chester had been prosperous enough to build those Victorian behemoths. A number of which are now converted as B&B's with an all season clientele from summer vacationers to fall leaf peakers as well as proximity to several ski areas. Except, apparently, on Mondays.

                The Depot was exquisite. A perfectly preserved version of the genre. And the General Store next to it seemingly hasn't changed its décor or busting at the seams stock of goods in more than a century. It was like entering a time machine from wood stoves to cast iron frying pans, vintage toys and knick-knack collectables. 

                  A few antique stores and a stone yard of garden sculptures later we were back at Curtis BBQ. Still closed. This time I read the sign and learned that it is open Thursday through Sunday. Darn. But as luck would have it we caught up with that wonderful pit boss that night in Putney. Check out our review.

              There were a number of enticing food options in Chester including the Country Girl Diner. I love diners almost as much as barbecue. It was terrific as elaborated in the BFA review. The Country Girl Diner scored on every count from taste to décor.

             We checked out neighboring Grafton with its Federal style architecture. The hamlet is smaller and older than Chester and was well worth the side trip.

                Newfane looked small and interesting but it was too early in the day to stop. So we drove on and got stuck in a traffic jam in Brattleboro. Checked out the small Brattleboro Museum but like another couple discovered that it was three and that the museum closed at two. What?  The city was not what we had in mind as a romantic getaway so we headed out of town and headed toward Putney which was not far away. It proved to be a terrific choice but that will be another story.